When your oven refuses to heat up, it’s a bit like a friend who promised to help you move but “suddenly remembered” they have an appointment. Frustrating? Absolutely. But just like with unreliable friends, sometimes the solution is knowing where to look for the real problem.
According to the U.S. Department of Energy, kitchen appliances account for about 9% of household energy use, and ovens are a big chunk of that. That means when your oven isn’t working, you’re not just missing dinner — you might also be wasting energy or risking bigger repairs down the road.
In this guide, we’ll walk through every possible reason your oven might not be working — whether it’s gas or electric — and exactly what you can do about it. This isn’t going to be fluff; it’s a toolbox of real solutions. And by the end, you’ll either have your oven back in business or know for sure when to call in the pros.
Understand the Type of Oven You Have
Before you even think about fixing your oven, you need to know your enemy — or in this case, your appliance.
There are two main types of ovens:
- Electric ovens – These use heating elements powered by electricity. They’re usually simpler to troubleshoot because you don’t deal with gas flow, but electrical faults can be trickier for some people to diagnose without a multimeter.
- Gas ovens – These rely on a gas supply (natural gas or propane) and an ignition system to heat the oven. They tend to heat faster but have more parts that can fail.
Why this matters: The troubleshooting steps differ greatly between electric and gas ovens. A gas oven with no heat might mean a faulty igniter, while in an electric oven it could be a blown element or faulty thermostat.
Quick Tip:
Check your oven’s model number (usually on a sticker inside the door frame). Look it up in the manufacturer’s manual — it’s your treasure map for what’s inside.
Check the Power Supply First
If your oven is as unresponsive as a teenager asked to clean their room, start with the basics: Is it even getting power?
For Electric Ovens
- Check the breaker box – Electric ovens often require 240 volts, which means two breakers work together. If one trips, your oven might have lights but no heat. Flip the breakers fully off and then back on.
- Inspect the plug and cord – A loose or damaged cord can prevent proper operation. Signs of burning or melting? Unplug immediately.
For Gas Ovens
- Check the breaker too – Yes, even gas ovens need electricity for igniters, control boards, and sometimes convection fans.
- Make sure gas is on – The gas valve might have been accidentally turned off. Follow the line from the oven to the wall to confirm.
Anecdote: I once had a neighbor convinced her oven was broken beyond repair. She had already ordered takeout for the week. Turned out her cat had stepped on the breaker panel in the basement, flipping the switch. Sometimes the “repair” is as simple as a quick flip.
Test the Heating Element (Electric Ovens)
The heating elements are the glowing metal coils you see at the top (broil element) and bottom (bake element) of the oven. If one of these fails, you’ll notice your oven not heating properly.
Steps to test:
- Visually inspect – Look for visible damage: blistering, cracks, or burn marks.
- Turn on the oven – If the element doesn’t glow red after a few minutes, it’s likely faulty.
- Use a multimeter – Disconnect power, remove the element, and test for continuity. No continuity means replacement time.
Stat: Heating elements are one of the top three most common electric oven failures according to appliance repair service data, accounting for roughly 30% of service calls.
Pro Tip: Replacing an element is usually a DIY-friendly fix. Most cost between $25–$60, and you just need a screwdriver and a little patience.
Inspect the Igniter (Gas Ovens)
If your gas oven isn’t heating, the igniter might be the culprit. This little part is what gets the gas burning.
Signs of a bad igniter:
- Oven takes longer than 8 minutes to light.
- No glow at all when you turn the oven on.
- A faint gas smell before ignition (dangerous — turn it off and ventilate immediately).
How to check:
- Turn on the oven and watch through the small window or open the door slightly. The igniter should glow orange.
- If it glows but no flame appears, it might be too weak to open the gas valve.
- Use a multimeter to check continuity when cool.
Note: Gas-related repairs require caution. If you smell strong gas, stop and call your gas company or a professional.
Examine the Temperature Sensor or Thermostat
Even if your oven turns on, it might not heat properly because the temperature sensor or thermostat isn’t communicating correctly.
For digital ovens:
- The sensor is usually a thin probe inside the oven.
- If it’s touching the wall, it can read the wrong temperature.
- Test with a multimeter — typical reading is around 1,080 ohms at room temperature.
For older manual ovens:
- The thermostat could be faulty.
- Calibration might help (instructions in your manual), but replacement may be needed.
Stat: A misreading thermostat can cause up to 20% energy waste because your oven keeps running longer than needed.
Check the Control Board
The control board is basically your oven’s brain. If it fails, it might not send power to the heating elements or igniter.
Signs it’s failing:
- Oven doesn’t respond to settings.
- Certain functions work, others don’t.
- Error codes on digital display.
Testing:
Turn off power, remove the back panel, and inspect for burn marks or blown components. While some boards can be repaired, most are replaced entirely.
Anecdote: I once had an oven where the control board failed after a power surge. I replaced it with a $120 part, and it felt like giving the oven a brand-new personality — suddenly obedient and predictable.
Don’t Forget the Door Seal
A damaged oven door seal might not stop your oven from turning on, but it can cause massive heat loss, making it feel like the oven “isn’t working.”
Signs:
- Food takes longer to cook.
- Oven feels warm on the outside.
- Visible tears in the gasket.
Fix:
Replacing a door seal is easy — most are held in by clips and cost between $20–$40.
Clean Out Blockages and Dirt
Sometimes your oven isn’t broken — it’s just clogged up with grease, crumbs, and carbon build-up.
- For gas ovens, debris can block burner holes.
- For electric ovens, baked-on grease can insulate elements and slow heating.
Pro Tip: Use a non-abrasive cleaner and avoid soaking electrical components.
Stat: Appliance repair techs estimate 10–15% of oven “failures” they’re called out for are fixed with nothing more than a deep clean.
When to Call a Professional
Some oven problems are best left to pros:
- Strong gas smell.
- Electrical issues you’re not comfortable testing.
- Control board repairs without proper tools.
According to HomeAdvisor, the average oven repair costs between $150–$400, while replacing the whole oven can be $600–$2,000. That’s why accurate troubleshooting saves you serious money.
Preventive Maintenance to Avoid Future Problems
You can avoid most oven breakdowns by:
- Cleaning monthly (yes, monthly — even if you don’t bake often).
- Checking seals yearly.
- Avoiding slamming the door (it can damage hinges and sensors).
- Using a surge protector for electronic ovens.
Stat: Regular maintenance can extend an oven’s lifespan from 13 years to 16 years on average.
Final Thoughts
An oven that doesn’t work isn’t the end of your home-cooked meals — it’s usually just a puzzle with a handful of possible missing pieces. By checking power supply, heating elements, igniters, thermostats, and seals, you can often fix it yourself without spending a fortune.
And remember — sometimes the “repair” is as easy as flipping a breaker or cleaning out a blocked burner. Other times, it’s about knowing when to grab the screwdriver… and when to grab the phone.